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Women's Dress in the Highlands in the 1800s - Respecting Our Heritage
By Patty MacFarlane Prather Arvada, Colorado, USAAs a woman raised and influenced by women of the Highlands, the issue of the tartan and women has long been a debate. There are those who subscribe to the "old school" of thought as well as those who are women of the 90's with newer ideas. Whatever ideas one may have, the clan and its tartan still hold deep meaning for Scots today.
We are indeed fortunate that in Scotland our ancestors were not separated from the greater historical families. Rather, it is that pride in our name, in our clan and in our tartan which has prevented barriers from dividing us. We all share in our wonderful traditions and in the brotherhood of our beloved Scotland. It is this love of our clan and of our tartan, which gives rise to many questions concerning the wearing of the tartan by women.
A clan or name owns a tartan. They differ in colour and weight and in their purpose. There are everyday tartans as well as tartans used for dress and for hunting. It has been said that anyone who appreciates the tartan well enough to wear it should wear it correctly. (The Right Honourable Countess of Erroll)
Celtic tribers were most excellent at weaving the wool and taking their dyes originally from plants. The older tartans were more subdued than are the newer tartans of today.
Strictly speaking, the kilt is attire for the male and should not be worn by ladies. Technically, a kilt should barely touch the floor when the man is kneeling, or come not below the middle of the kneecap. There would be no such thing as a long kilt.
Ladies are free, however, to wear a pleated skirt of any length. The pleats should go across the front of the skirt, drop pleats are acceptable today, whereas the kilt is not pleated in the front. A lady should never wear a Sporran. Many women wear what is called an arasaid, a long garment of tartan from the neck or the shoulders, which was pleated all around and belted at the waist. It was acceptable to wear a brooch at the breast or wear it unbelted if the woman was with child. Women were also known to wear a curraichd of linen or of wool over their heads, tied under their chins.
A tonnag was a square of wool or tartan, which was worn over the shoulders much like a shawl, would be worn today In the evening a lady may wear a plain dress with a tartan sash, a tartan skirt of silk, with a suitable corsage, and a sash of the tartan. The sash should be fixed by a brooch to the left shoulder, one end crossing the back and the other carried across the breast--both ends being knotted on the right side. A blouse of a suitable material is acceptable with respectable necklines. Shoes with buckles are appropriate for both sexes although shoes without them for a lady are fine. A Balmoral style hat is also appropriate although only the male should wear a crest if he is the registered owner of one or a chief's crest to show he is a follower of a chief, on occasion.
These are clearly old Highland dress requirements. As one raised by Scots from the Highlands (who would turn over in their grave to hear me say this) I would wear a kilt if it was the only thing I had to display my tartan. My sons have kilts and wear them. I believe carrying on the custom of dress is important, it speaks to a pride and a love for our Scottish heritage.
The design of the tartan has long been important to women. There is record of a housewife who, in 1572, gave coloured wool to a weaver to make into her tartan. When the weaver made the tartan according to his own design and not according to hers, she sued him before a magistrate and won. The weaver was punished.
If Highland housewives of the 1500’s were prepared to be certain that their tartan was made properly, perhaps we should honour them and the men who wore the tartan into battle, by respectfully wearing the tartan as it was intended.
About the author: Patty was born in Rome, New York into a family rich in Scottish heritage and pride. Her ancestors are from Stirling and Alloa, arriving in the United States in the 1860’s; she is entitled to wear the tartan of both the MacFarlane and the Gordon clans. Educated in Central New York Catholic schools, Syracuse and Purdue Universities she is the mother of six and grandmother of ten children. Patty is self-employed as a counselor for women and currently the Coordinator of Immigrant Ships Transcribers Guild.
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